– The Conversation – Home – How food became the perfect beachhead for gentrification

When food trucks start rolling up, developers usually aren’t far behind. Photo by Samantha Trauben/Getty Images for International Rescue CommitteeEverybody, it seems, welcomes the arrival of new restaurants, cafés, food trucks and farmers markets. What could be the downside of fresh veggies, homemade empanadas and a pop-up restaurant specializing in banh mis? But when they appear in unexpected places – think inner-city areas populated by immigrants – they’re often the first salvo in a broader effort to rebrand and remake the community. As a result, these neighborhoods can quickly become unaffordable and unrecognizable to longtime residents. Stoking an appetite for gentrification I live in San Diego, where I teach courses on urban and food geographies…

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